Wild Horses Couldn't Drag Me Away

 

Bison at the TRNP North Unit Entrance

Just about every year since I discovered Theodore Roosevelt National Park (TRNP), I've made it a point to spend at some time in this US National Park Service hidden gem.  Located along I94 in western North Dakota, it takes some planning and effort to visit . . . especially the north unit of the park which is located a little more than an hour away from the main part of the park near Medora, ND.  Travelers traversing I94 owe it to themselves to at least get out and stretch at the Painted Canyon Visitor Center that overlooks the North Dakota badlands.

The wildlife and geologic features of the two units are unique and worthy of the effort if you have the time.  Realistically, I suggest at least 5-6 hours to do both.  But if you only have say 2-4 hours, you'll no doubt enjoy your time at the south unit of the park.

While there are lots of bison, prairie dogs, elk, deer and pronghorn in TRNP, my favorite animal to seek out and photograph are the bands of wild horses that reside on the open plains in the park!  My visits have generally been successful, although since the road washed out on the eastern side of the loop, access to roughly six miles of the south unit has been cut off since 2019.

Sadly this is an ongoing issue throughout the US national park system, as similar road work continues in Denali and Yellowstone National Parks.  That said, and while an inconvenience of not being able to drive the TRNP loop road in a continuous fashion, it is still worth the visit and opportunities to see these horses in the wild.

With an overnight campsite booked in the Cottonwood campground located about five miles inside the park, I was fortunate to have more time to seek out the horses and enjoy the park. Ironically, after several hours looking, it wasn't until dusk as I returned to camp that two of the bands were making their way up from the river . . . crossing the road right at the camp entrance.  The best viewing was the next morning at the break of day! I was thoroughly delighted by my lucky timing to spend more than an hour with them.  And oh yeah, the sunrise was AMAZING!

 

If your time permits, the visitor center at the entrance to the south unit is very interesting.  Behind the building you will find the Maltese Cross Cabin, belonging to Theodore Roosevelt himself.  Built in 1884, Roosevelt stayed in this log cabin when he visited the Dakotas.  It has since been moved here to the park for viewing.  It is open during the visitor center hours to take a peak inside.

By 10am I was heading out of TRNP and to my next destination . . . Parkside Campground located south of Red Lodge, Montana in the Custer Gallatin National Forest near the Beartooth Highway. As I approached Red Lodge, I could see the thunderstorm brewing off in the distance.  The skies grew darker as I continued south.  When I got into to town, the air temp had dropped more than 30°F and the shorts & t-shirt I was wearing needed to be changed out for long pants and a hoodie for added warmth.

The local visitor center was a convenient stop to change.  While inside, I got some information on area dining (I was feeling like a good steak dinner) and received a great recommendation for the Bear Creek Saloon & Steakhouse about 20 minutes away.  Even better, they offered pig races with actual gambling.  CRAZY as it sounds, it was a blast.  Guests pay $2 per square on a 5x5 board, similar to the football pools run in most areas of the country.

With $50 collected per board, 50% is paid to the winner and 50% is retained for a scholarship fund which awards thousands of dollars annually to local kids.  I ponied up $6 for 3 squares for the first race at 7pm, and what do you know . . . I WON!  They run about eight or 10 races Thursday thru Sunday nights.  I messed around and missed out on the second race, but got in on the third . . . and I WON THAT ONE TOO!  So I was in for $12, and won $50 for a net windfall of $38.
Crazy I know . . . it was truly insane.

Heck I was so excited about the pig races, I almost forgot about the outstanding prime rib dinner I had beforehand!  I had the 14 oz prime rib dinner ($36) which included a dinner salad, all you can eat rolls and choice of potato.  Ordering the end cut, I know my piece of meat had to have been at least 18-20 oz, leaving more than enough (with extra dinner rolls to go) for lunch the next day.  With a beverage and tip, my meal was a little over $50, so the net for my evening out . . . dinner + entertainment was just $12!  What a great way to spend an evening.

I didn't stay for the rest of the races mostly because I wanted to get back to my campsite and get settled in before dark.  With the cloudy skies and intermittent rain, it was a good call especially since my campsite was about 25 yards from the vault toilets, a necessity before turning in for the night. I was tucked in for sleep by 9pm . . . and ready to hit the day running on Friday.